Salle Privée exists to provide urban men with the ideal wardrobe. We do this by offering a permanent collection of fashion essentials. Understated colour palettes and the concept of refinement are key to our goal of creating truly timeless garments. Below, we provide details on how we have crafted a double breasted overcoat that is sure to stay in style for years to come.
The Birth Of A Legend
It all began at sea. While hard grafting ‘reefers’ (naval sailors whose responsibility was to ‘reef’ sails) were purposefully kitted with short and thick-collared double breasted jackets, senior officers on deck were privileged to wear lengthier double breasted coats. From this maritime origin, as is with much military attire, the double breasted style then started to infiltrate more hospitable environments.
One such place was tennis clubs – ironically rendering the style to be considered too informal for the workplace. Fortunately, that reputation gave way and the double breasted coat quickly developed a more formal status after being adopted, restyled and championed by the Duke of Windsor.
Fast-forward to the present day and this time-enduring garment now serves as a respected wardrobe staple – for men and women – that, when thoughtfully designed, holds double the benefit by functioning as an anchor for both formal and more casual looks.
IVES DOUBLE BREASTED WOOL OVERCOAT, GEHRY CHINO TROUSERS | SLIM FIT | COTTON TWILL, LOGAN DERBY SHOES
Modernising A Classic
In the Salle Privée collection, we hold two contemporary reinterpretations of this iconic piece. Both of which have been crafted with the aim of future-proofing what is indisputably a timeless classic.
Throughout his acclaimed career in fashion, Salle Privée founder and creative director, Patrick Munsters, has seen and collected a seemingly endless number of double breasted coats. As a style, it is his reigning favourite. And so he challenged himself to create the ultimate version of this fashion icon. The results are IVES and ALAIN.
To enhance the regular double breasted design, Munsters began by removing a common yet somewhat questionable embellishment: the chest pocket. What he added in place were buttons. While subtle, these work to emphasize the coat’s stature and greatly contribute to the intended contemporary aesthetic.
Storage functionality is however essential, so with both the IVES and the ALAIN, two external flap pockets have been perfectly positioned near the waist, while three button-fastened pockets neatly live internally. A point to note is that all buttons on both coats are made of buffalo horn – a material far superior and more durable than cheaper plastic alternatives.
Another characteristic feature is large peak lapels. Together with a generally straighter fit, as well as a more generous, slightly longer-than-usual design, these details work to ensure that our coats look just as good done up as they do when worn open.
Considering colours and patterns, the IVES is made in camel and night blue, while the ALAIN comes in tan, a wide olive check and the well-loved herringbone pattern. Despite their differences, each of these fabrics has been sourced from premium Italian mills. All are high quality, heavy and durable blends that primarily consist of wool. Not only do we acquire our materials from prestigious Italian names, but every one of our garments is also made by Italy’s most masterful makers.
Raising The Bar Even Further
While the IVES is permanent to our collection, the ALAIN is our limited edition offering and consequently boasts a number of added luxury touches. One of these is the gold Bemberg lining. Recognised as the ‘King of Linings’, it is light yet durable, static free and provides superior breathability.
The ALAIN also features an elegant chain hanging loop, and a further standout element is its unique, limited edition number – found inside the bottom right-hand inner pocket. With all three of our ALAIN styles, only 50 pieces have been produced, making each a truly one-of-a-kind possession.
With both coats, our use of AMF stitching is yet another noticeable detail. Named after the tool used to apply it, this is a known indication of unrivaled suit construction.
So, be it that some may believe ‘a coat is a coat’, that is certainly not the case. And though all these details work to exemplify the careful consideration behind our every stitch, one final fact still goes to show just how committed we are to quality: When purchasing one of these pieces, it is delivered with a signature coat hanger – not just any run of the mill hanger, but one that like the garment it carries, was passionately produced in Italy.
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